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Maintenance of Dreadlocks
http://fromgrandmaskitchen.com/Natural-Hair-Beauty/articles/3/1/Maintenance-of-Dreadlocks/Page1.html
naanis naturals
naanis naturals is a hand-crafted, natural and organic beauty care line. Articles from http://naani.com are reprinted with permission and featured on FGK. Order select naani's naturals products from http://shopgrandmaskitchen.com  
By naanis naturals
Published on 09/9/2007
 
Treat your locks as if they were your babies.  Shield them from harm.From lint to lice, unlike loose hair, you can't brush the inner core of dreadlocks so learn how to shield them from potential harm.

Protecting Dreadlocks from the Elements
From lint to lice, unlike loose hair, you can't brush the inner core of dreadlocks so learn how to shield them from potential harm.

Always sleep with a silk or satin scarf or pillow-case because it protects the hair from lint and will help retain moisture. In addition, use some covering for the hair when putting on shirts/sweaters as dreadlocks tend to pick up lint very easily.

Lice are a threat to some Locwearers. Although this isn't typically a problem for blacks or dreadlocked hair, it's better to be safe than sorry.  If you have small children, take the necessary precautions to prevent infestation.

During winter months, it's a good idea to find some sort of head covering such as a tam, crown or head wrap. Your dreadlocks are very susceptible to cold and so is your scalp.  During this time of the year your dreadlocks and skin will suffer from dryness and cracking. 

Luckily, you can purchase a variety of stylish tams, headwraps, Rasta crowns and kufis conveniently and inexpensively online.  Visit the RASTA HATS, KUFIS link here on naani.com.

naani's naturals Hand-Crafted, Natural & Organic Products

Customer Testimonial:  Where have you been all of my life??  I've been natural for over 14 years now and haven't looked back.  I just started with locks about two years ago.  I love it, but it was hard to decide what products to use.  Now that I have your website, that is no longer a worry. 

I just placed my second order for the LOCK'D DOWN butter...WOW!!!!  It looks like I'm a new and happy member of an awesome family!!!  -- Celeste -- Eastlake, Ohio



Properly Shampooing Mature Dreadlocks
Once your dreadlocks mature, you can return to some degree of normalcy regarding hair care.  In this section, we discuss some familiar and not so familiar ways to shampoo and care for your (dreadlock'd) hair.

Wash mature dreadlocks like you would hand-wash a fine piece of clothing. Rub the dreadlocks against each other, rinse and squeeze your hair repeatedly until the water runs clean. Taking this approach will ensure that you have cleansed the dreadlocks inside and out. Mature dreadlocks are tough but they do deserve TLC (tender loving care).

naaniMODEL Tubby shampoos her locks while watching television.  Mature dreadlocks are better shampoo'd over a sink or basin than in the shower.If you have mature dreadlocks, you can begin using conditioners.  Unlike baby locks, mature locks will not unravel.  A good conditioner will moisturize and soften your dreads.  Try implementing a deep conditioning treatment at least once a month.  When rinsing out the conditioner, be sure that you have completely removed the product.  Squeeze your dreads as you let the water run through your hair.  This will help insure that all of the product is removed.

As your locks mature, it's best to wash them in the kitchen sink or tub.  Many people continue to shampoo their dreads in the shower but as your dreadlocks grow, more attention is needed when you cleanse them.  While in the shower, we tend to rush through the process.  I mean think about it, you're washing your body AND your dreadlocks.  If you are truly giving your dreadlocks the attention they deserve, the water will run cold well before you finish.  This is why we suggest cleansing them seperately.

By shampooing your dreadlocks in the sink or using the tub faucet, you're focusing on your hair rather than trying to do an all in one body-hair cleanse.  Shampooing this way increases the probability that you will thoroughly cleanse each lock and rinse away any residue that can be left by shampoos and conditioners.

Finally, avoid going to sleep with wet/damp dreadlocks because it encourages the development of mildew.  Dreadlocks are like a wet towel post-shampoo.  Imagine leaving a soaking wet towel to air dry.  Sure, it won't be completely rank but it won't smell dryer-sheet clean either.  Allergens, dirt, bateria will use this damp surface as a breeding ground.  Therefore, like the towel, dreadlocks are something that you want to dry as quickly as possible.

The point is, allow dreadlocks to dry completely, especially before going to bed. If you are unable to let them air dry, sit under a hooded dryer for several minutes. Also, allowing them to dry avoids flattening newly formed dreadlocks while you sleep.

Deep Condition or Rinse?
Deep conditioning is great when you want to achieve softness.  A quality deep conditioner such as naani's naturals S-Factor Herbal Deep Conditioner will work wonders on dry, hard, itchy, scratchy locks.  It'll also help smooth fly-aways and make styling easier.  But conditioners are best for mature locks and conditioners, like all products, can build-up on hair.  So what are people with baby-teenage locks to do?  What about those who have mature locks but suffer from build-up issues, what options do they have?

naani's naturals Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinse!  Vinegar has been used throughout history to remove odor and cleanse.  You'll find vinegar in cleasing products (window cleaner for example), douches and yes, even hair care.  The natural acidity in vinegar helps cut grease and grime and it naturally eliminates odor.  The "problem" with vinegar is that when used improperly or formulated incorrectly, you walk away smelling like vinegar.  There's NOthing worse than going to work and feeling like everyone's noticing the vinegar in your hair.

These rinses are great for immature locks, for people who play sports or those who sweat a lot (you don't want your locks to smell like a gym sock), for people who suffer from build-up or those wanting a quick and unique alternative to traditional conditioners.

If you're wondering what makes naani's naturals Rinses better, ours are fortified with herbs and we use a unique blend of pure Essential Oils depending on your hair colour so you're left with a refreshing scent rather than funky vinegar.  This is now a MUST in my routine.  I wash my locks every 7-10 days and now alternate using naani's naturals S-Factor Herbal Deep Conditioner and the Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinse.  My hair has never looked or felt better.

Products Used: naani's naturals No-Sulfate/USDA Certified Organic Shampoo, Cucumber Lime Clarifying Shampoo, S-Factor Deep Conditioner, Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinse.  These hand-crafted, aromatherapy products are available in the naani store.

Adding Sheen to Dreadlocks
Dreadlocks don't have to lock dull.  Find out how-to make your dreadlocks shine.

Avoid petroleum altogether.  

Avoid petroleum in conjunction with abundance of beeswax. Beeswax is not necessarily bad but when it is combined with petrolatum, it tends to form a thick, water-repellent product. 

Although some dread wax products will smooth fly-aways, people tend to goop the petroleum-beeswax concoctions onto their locks.  With repeated use of this type of product combo, build-up, residue and dulling of locks is sure to occur.

Drea's dreadlocks after using naani's naturals LOCK'D DOWN Dreadlocks Butter.Now if you're looking for a dreadlock product that controls frizzies but doesn't have the typical downsides associated with over-the-counter beeswax and that of some of the products you'll find on the internet, try naani's naturals LOCK'D DOWN Dreadlocks Butter.  

We have formulated this product specifically for use on dreadlocks.  LOCK'D DOWN leaves no residue and rinses clean.  To see actually users of our products, check out naaniMODEL SoulSISTA's profile.

Use your judgment when deciding which products to purchase. The basic rule of thumb is that if it's feels heavy, sticky and thick to the touch, it's probably something you don't want in your hair.

If you are having a hard time removing waxy build-up, lemon juice is a great natural cleanser. Using the juice from several lemons as a pre-wash, strain the juice to remove pulp and seeds, then saturate your dreadlocks with the juice. Allow it to set for five to ten minutes and then shampoo.

Another alternative is to spritz your dreadlocks thoroughly with an antiseptic cleanser prior to shampooing.  Afterwards, respritz your hair with the antiseptic before twisting.  Avoid using the antiseptic over a long period of time as it will cause dryness in both your dreadlocks and scalp.

Use hot oil treatments once a month to condition the scalp and mature dreadlocks.

Taming New-Growth
Woman demonstrating the use of duckbill clips to secure dreadlocks.  You can purchase these clips inexpensively online via naani.com.  Visit the HAIR STYLING TOOLS Link.When you have stray hairs/frizzies that come out of your twists or braids, they should be palmrolled back into their respective loc. Palm-rolling is done in one complete, smooth motion.  Do not rub your hands back-and-forth.

Twist and palm-roll your dreadlocks when they are wet because this is when they are easiest to shape. Doing so also prevents breakage and root damage.

To help keep your twists/palm-rolls from unraveling after shampooing and palm-rolling, use quality products and metal clips to secure the loc. Sit under a hooded dryer on a medium setting until the hair is dry. Remove the clips and the dreadlocks should remain intact. Sleep with a satin scarf to preserve the style.

PALM-ROLLING ALTERNATIVES
I have a confession to make.  I've been hiding something from the naaniFam.  I know, I know, "HOW DARE I????," but a sista's been busy and besides, I wanted to try it out myself first before I put the information on the site.

Now like most of you, I endure the trials of shampooing, palm-rolling and clipping my dreadlocks on a pretty regular basis only to have them unravel or frizz up in a matter of days.

For me, beeswax with petrolatum is a no-no...I don't care what kind you use and shampooing less frequently isn't an option.  I figured I was doomed to a life of struggling with my dreadlocks.

Now although frizzies are still a problem, I found a way to help my dreadlocks remain intact for the duration of at least a week, if not longer.  I say at least a week because I shampoo on a weekly basis so I'm not sure how much longer this method works.  If you wanna guesstimate, I'd say anywhere from 10-14 days depending on lifestyle, your dreadlocks' condition and other maintenance factors.

So what's the skinny?  Have I created enough suspense?  Are you dying to know what the heck I'm talking about???

Tubby's Untwisted Locks, Post ShampooThe picture to the right demonstrates my locks post shampoo.  How old are my locks?  At the time this photo was taken they were approximately 6 years old.  So here's where you say, "Oh my God!  Why are they so frizzy?"

The reality is, some people will suffer from frizzies for the life of their locks.  Unfortunately, locticians or veteran lockers will take the attitude that it must be something you're doing or not doing.  And as always, such comments usually point to a lack of knowledge on their part rather than a fault on yours.  Now I can only speak to my own experience and fortunately for you, my experience is the extreme.  Thus, you will benefit from my suffering.

Under-Growth or Extreme Frizzies:  I didn't realize it but one naani's visitors emailed me some months ago regarding an issue she was having with her natural hair.  This sista didn't have locks but was instead writing about the difficulty she was having with braids and cornrows.  She had what she termed, "Under-Growth:"  An abundance of vellus (short, fine, "baby-hair"). 

Imagine your own hair.  Say it's 12 inches long.  Then imagine that for every 12 inch hair, you have a hair that is 1-2 inches long.  So in a sense, you have an Afro within an Afro...one short, one long.  Unfortunately, the hairs that make up the mini-afro never seem to grow as long as the rest of your hair.  The hairs that make up the mini-fro also tend to be softer, finer and in my case, straighter.  It's not a matter of breakage...it just is what it is.



For the woman who emailed us, she was having trouble with her braids/cornrows.  Her complaint was that directly after having her hair professionally did, it'd look as if she'd already had the braids/cornrows in for a week. Fam, I can't tell you how deeply her story resonated with me.  She was describing MY hair!

Prior to discovering the technique that I currently use, I'd palm-roll.  My hair, like this woman's, is very susceptible to touch, moisture and humidity.  On a humid day, my hair "grows."  Where everyone's hair responds to humidity, it's the under-growth that gets me in trouble.  Since it's closest to the scalp, when it poofs up and out, it looks as if I haven't done anything to my locks.  And anyone with locks knows, if the roots look unkempt, then so does the rest of your hair.

So no matter what I did, within 3 days of doing my hair, it began to look a hot mess.  Retwisting was fairly pointless as it looked better the following day, but the day after that, I was back at square one.  I began to wonder if locks were for me.  But then I discovered braiding.

In the case of the woman who emailed naani, her issues could be resolved with using better products.  Using products that smooth or secure fly-aways/frizzies would help her braids/cornrows look neater in the short-run.  But in time, moisture in the air, sweat, friction with clothing and pillow cases is bound to put the frizzies back into action.

In my case, it wasn't a matter of products as you'll soon see.  The products were great, it was my technique that was lacking.  And as I've always told ya, you could have the best products in the world but if you're not using the properly OR if your technique sucks, they're not gonna do a damn thing for you.

BRAIDING FRIZZIES:  Instead of two-stranding loose hairs, try braiding.  The picture below demonstrates this technique.  You should be able to distinguish between the locks that have been twisted and those that have not.  The ones that have been twisted are the result of using the braiding frizzies technique in conjunction with palm-rolling.

Where it's a little awkward to do if you only have a few strands of hair, but if you're like me, braiding frizzies can help maintain your lock style A LOT longer than simple palm-rolling or two-strand twisting.



So how do I do that thing I do?  Starting at the root (the area closest to the scalp), braid the frizzies down the lock.  With braiding, you need 3-legs or 3 strands of hair.  In this case, you have the lock itself and the frizzy hair.  If you divide the frizzy hair into two sections, you now have the three "strands" needed to braid (the lock itself, section 1 of the frizzy hair and section two).  In a way, you're sorta-cornrowing since you're picking up frizzy hair down the length of the lock as you "braid" but hopefully you get the idea.

Taming New-Growth Continued...
Once complete, palm-roll the braided lock.  This will help mesh the braid with the locks and smooth or integrate any stray frizzies.  Secure the lock with a metal clip.  Move onto the next section.  Allow to dry and and remove all of the clips.

Be sure that you braid evenly and loosely.  Meaning, don't place too much tension on the braid. 
 


The above picture shows one completed side after I've done the techniques described in the section.  In this photo, I still have some areas to finish, namely the opposite side and back.  If you look closesly, you will see some locks that still have frizzy hairs emerging from them.  These locks still need to be done and should demo the difference between what could be and what is when using this technique.

Without taking these steps, my locks would be frizzy even after hours of palm-rolling and within a matter of days, they'd be ultra-poofy.  These techniques insure that my hard work doesn't go to waste.

I'll be honest, it's fairly time consuming.  The longer my locks get, the longer it takes to braid, then palm-roll my locks.  In the past, it took up to 9 hours or more.  Granted, I'm a perfectionist, watch TV and take frequent breaks but it's a long process nonetheless.  Recently I got to the point where I considered cutting my locks as I could no longer endure the stress or strain that came with this bi-weekly routine.  That is until I remembered my own mantra...If it's not the technique, it's the products and vice versa.

naani's naturals has been offering Herbal Vinegar Rinses for months.  Although I remember my mom occassionally using vinegar rinses on my hair as a child, I had yet to fully integrate them into my dreadlocks routine.  One weekend while doing my locks, I decided I need to do a clarifying treatment.  I didn't want to dabble into the naani supply and use the Cucumber Lime Clarifying Shampoo because we had lots of pending orders for it.  Given that large batch of the herbal rinse had recently finished curing, I took the concentrated rinse, diluted it with water per the instructions and set out to use it.

When you were younger, did you ever make a volcano as a science project?  You probably used baking soda and vinegar to mimic lava.  Well, I did and SURPRISE!  SURPRISE!  Granted, I hadn't washed all the shampoo out (I usually do an extensive final rinse but only rinse a couple minutes in-between shampoo and before applying the conditioner), but as soon as I poured the rinse on my hair, it's as if it activated the remaining shampoo trapped in my locks.  My hair started lathering again and all I could do was smile.

I'm sure you remember one of my warnings...in my experience, build-up in locks is most often shampoo that has not been thorougly rinse out.  By doing an Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinse, I was able to insure that all the shampoo from the current wash and any other trapped sediments got rinsed away.  This result was expected, but here's what wasn't...

It took me only 5-6 hours to do the braid-frizzies technique and palm-roll my locks.  My locks are now seven years old and although I've cut them in the past, they're fairly long.  A session that normally takes half the day was cut in half.  For lack of a better word, the vinegar helped "tighten" my hair, making it easier to maintain.  I'm not going to go into too much detail regarding PH, acids and bases, just know that our hair's natural state is slightly acidic.  Vinegar is naturally acidic.  Hair products are typically consider bases.  So by using a vinegar rinse you're helping your hair get closer to its normal state...making it stronger, healthier and easier to style.

And if you're wondering what makes naani's naturals Rinses better, ours are made with fortified with herbs and we use a unique blend of pure Essential Oils depending on your hair colour so you're left with a refreshing scent rather than funky vinegar.

Products Used: naani's naturals No-Sulfate/USDA Certified Organic Shampoo, S-Factor Deep Conditioner, Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinse, Lock'd Down Dreadlocks Butter.  These hand-crafted, aromatherapy products are available in the naani store.

BRAIDING NEW GROWTH: I'd describe this technique as "simple in thought but difficult in practice."  In this instance, the hair at the scalp (which generally remains unlocked) is braided to create neat, uniform sections for your dreadlocks.

Most people have between 1-2 inches of unlocked hair at their scalp.  Normally during maintenance, this hair is palm-rolled to help train the hairs for dreadlocks and also to keep your dreadlocks looking neat.  

Unfortunately, palm-rolling isn't the most secure method of keeping new-growth intact.  By braiding the new growth, you'll achieve better separation and longevity for your dreadlock'd styles.  

Simply braid the new-growth.  Trust me, it's easier than it sounds.  You'll have to braid very small amounts of hair and if you're not very skilled or have fat fingers, you'll have to practice this method over and over again in order to get it right.'

If you can't employ the services of a friend or professional, to save time, I suggest doing only the front of your hair as this is the area that is most noticeable.



Warning! SCALP-U-LOCK...naaniMODEL SOULSISTA termed the appearance of dreadlocks using the braid and cornrow methods as "Scalp-U-Lock."  I thought it was pretty cute...the term that is.

Basically what she meant was that instead of your dreadlocks appearing natural, they tend to take on the appearance of braided sections ("box braids") at the scalp.  You won't be able to notice the braids themselves, but using this method will result in clearer lock separation.  If you have thicker hair, then it won't be much of a problem.  But if your hair is on the finer side as is the case with Drea in the above photo, then Scalp-U-Lock will be far more apparent.  So if you prefer to have fuller-looking, more natural (traditional) dreadlocks AND you have fine hair or large parts/sections to begin with, this method may not be for you.  Either way, it's worth a try :-)