Weaves or Hair Extensions are a popular styling option for many women of African descent. Believe it or not, weaving dates back to ancient African civilizations. Of course they didn't use silky, European hair to do the weaving back then, but the technique of supplementing your own hair with some element to add length or volume is not new.

Weaving gets a bad rap these days despite the fact that many African-American women choose this style as a necessity. Many believe that weaving is just another form of self-hatred in the Black community and view the addition of European hair as a sign of disgust for our own natural hair texture.

On the flip side, those who support weaves have varied views on their usefulness and in some cases, their necessity.  Many of these women see weaves and hair extensions as nothing more than a styling option or accessory. Despite all the controversy, I've decided to devote a section to weaving.

To remove the addition, most stylists use a bond glue remover or lubricate the hair with a natural oil. For the latter method once totally lubricated, the stylist can gently slide off weft and then brush out the excess glue.

The biggest advantage to bonding is that it produces a flat, "natural" look. Unlike some other methods, bond weaves require no base such as cornrows. It's great for adding small sections such as bangs or trying new colors and high lights.

The problem with bonding is that the wearer can grow so attached to her new hair that she may keep the style for too long. Bonding is actually a temporary weave in that it's intended to last only three to four days. As a result, bonding is best used for special occasions and should be removed after the time limit.

Bonding can be achieved relatively quickly but it depends on how much hair is being added. On average, this process takes about 10 to 30 minutes.

Pretty much the same as above but with an image :-)  With this technique, the hair is divided into small sections and strands of hair which are applied to increase fullness or length.

Specially formulated hair adhesives are used to create a secure bond between the extension and your hair. Due to the fact that the extensions are applied individually, this method allows the hair to appear more free-flowing and move more naturally.

You can either apply the adhesive or purchase pre-glued hair extensions that result in simpler, faster application.

Stand-Bond extensions can last up to 4-6 months. 

Cornrow Tracking

Cornrows are created as the base and are used instead of weaving cord to form the tracks.  Given that the hair is cornrowed tightly against scalp, this creates a constant tension that may lead to alopecia. Another downside to this technique is that unless the hair is cornrowed in very small sections, the end result are bulky and noticeable rows when the extensions are sewn onto cornrowed base. This technique also offers limited flexibility as the hair generally can not be worn in an up-do and therefore styling options are limited as the parting positions cannot vary.  This style generally lasts up-to 10 weeks.

Invisible Braiding or Tree-Braiding

photo courtesy of www.kristenlock.com

With this method, hair extensions are added without the use of threads or glues.  The hair extensions are braided into the hair in cornrowed layers. As the braid goes in place, the extension is separated from the natural hair in small sections and pulled away from the braid in a close pattern. The natural hair ends up fully braided and serves as a support for the hair extensions.

Invisible braids are a quick and easy method to achieve length, unfortunately, they do not last as long as traditional braiding techniques and will need to be redone more frequently.

Invisble braids photo courtesy of www.braidsbynina.com

Fusion or Fusing Hair Extensions

Fusion is a method in which a stylist attaches strands of hair to your own by sealing them with a glue wax. Unlike bonding which can at least be attempted at home, fusion requires a skilled technician. So before you break out a tube of cheap glue, think again. Many stylists use special glues and a tool similar to a glue gun to attach the hair. Try this at home and you may end up fusing more than your hair.

Fusion weaves are removed by adding fusion glue remover to the area of the attachment. A tool that sorta looks like a set of pliers is then used to loosen the glue. The removal is the most delicate part of the fusion technique so trying to do it on your own could cause irrevocable damage to your hair. So I repeat, go to a professional stylist.

The positives of the fusion method is that you can achieve a great deal of styling flexibility. Most strand-by-strand techniques give your hair a realistic feel in that you can actually run your fingers through your hair without running into the protrusions and lumps that are typically associated with weaves. Fusion also offers easier integration with your natural hair.

The downside to fusion is that it puts tension on your hair and the removal process can be traumatic to the shaft. The resins used to attach the hair can actually weaken it and damage follicles. This is why it's important to seek a professional stylist so that you can minimize the damage caused by this technique. Also, if you're the type who gets weave after weave, consider giving your hair a break from the glue now and then and use an alternative style.

You can expect to be in your beautician's chair for at least four to eight hours if you choose the fusion method. If you have an unbelievably large dome, it could take longer. The length of time needed for this technique also depends on whether or not you're going for a full or partial application. 

Individual Hair Extensions

Individuals involve the attachment of thin, fine braids onto small sections of your hair. Like fusion, this is a strand-by-strand technique in which a stylist attaches microbraids to small strands of your hair with a slip knot at the base. The remaining hair is left to flow freely. Removal of individuals requires undoing the knot with a comb.

Some advantages to individuals are that styling options are virtually unlimited not to mention you can fool people into thinking they're real cause you can vigorously brush it or curl it if you're using human hair. This style lasts two to three months but wearing very small braids places a lot of tension on the hair at the root.

These small strands can easily be pulled out and as painful as it sounds, they can take your hair right along with them. Because of the problems that can occur with individuals, stylists do not recommend that women with fine, thin hair use this technique because it could make your hair thin out even more.

Prepare to be in the salon a LONG time because individuals can take anywhere from 8-24 hours. Yes, I did say 24 hours.

Malaysian Hair Extensions

The Malaysian style involves the formation of a single thread at your scalp to form the base. Rows of wefts are then attached evenly throughout the scalp. One good thing about this technique is that it does not use any braids, glue or resin. In addition, pressure on the scalp is evenly distributed so there is full integration between your hair and the weave.

The Malaysian style produces a flat, "natural," smooth look. It also allows your hair and scalp to breathe and can be shampooed, conditioned and styled as you normally would. Because the weave is anchored so well, you don't have to be as delicate in styling as with other methods because it's harder to pull out the weave. The Malaysian works best on hair that is relaxed or pressed straight. For those into natural stylings, the Malaysian can be used to supplement afro weaves.

This style doesn't take as much time as some of the others so you don't have to plan your week around getting it done. The Malaysian takes about three hours to complete.

Sewn-In Hair Extensions

Sewing is a very common weave method. The stylist will begin by cornrowing your hair and will then sew extensions onto the cornrow. The cornrow serves as a solid base for the stylist to work with. The wefts of hair are then sewed onto the cornrow to add length.

Sewing takes about three to four hours.