There are different types of permanents and a million and one ways to screw up this chemical process.  No one likes frizzy hair and the days of dippity to accentuate curls are over...I mean who wants crunchy hair? 

You can now achieve a permanent that does virtually anything you can imagine: loose waves, corkscrew curls or simply transform fine, limp hair by giving it body. So let's start by giving you some quick and easy tips on achieving the perm of your dreams.

Begin by shampooing your hair.  It's best to use a clarifying shampoo or an essentially herbal vinegar rinse.  This step is critical.  You want to make sure that your hair is not laden with product, mineral deposits or dirt.  Dirty hair inhibits the chemical's ability to penetrate the hair shaft and do its job.  By clarifying, you're insuring that your processing time is accurate and not off-set or elongated.

Next, wrap the hair around the rod or curler.  Make sure it's a nice, tight adhesion to the rod.

Apply the perm lotion to your hair.  Process according to the directions then rinse the hair thoroughly.  Once you feel you can't take anymore water, take the next crucial step...neutralize!  Neutralizing lotion is a critical step in most chemical hair procedures.  The lotion does exactly what the name implies...it neutralizes or negates any chemicals that remain on your hair.  Ignoring this step or doing a poor job in applying the lotion means that any chemicals that remain on your hair will continue to process.  The chemical reminents will gradually eat away at your hair and cause the cuticle and shaft to weaken and eventually break.

DO NOT wash your hair for 2-3 days.  You've seen Legally Blonde.  Consider it a break.  Give your hair a rest and save some shampoo. 

If you're going to cut your hair, it's best to do so AFTER your perm.  Why?  Look at it practically.  If your hair is currently 12 inches long when it's straight, how long will it look when it's curly?  The curls will "draw" your hair up so to speak so cutting after a permanent gives you a better idea of how much length you're willing to get rid of.


It didn't take
If your perm does not "take," DO NOT attempt to re-perm your hair.  Not only should you wait a significant amount of time, this is probably one of those instances where you should get your butt to a salon.  Let them correct or help you figure out where the initial procedure went wrong.

Combating Damage
Chemical procedures damage our hair...period.  We can take steps to minimize the damage but in the end when you put the pH equivalent of drano drain cleaner on your hair, it's bound to change our hair in more ways than one.  You'll find that your hair is far more dry.  You'll want to avoid over-styling your hair.  High-speed, hot dryers, flat-irons, hot combs and rollers only further exacerbate the dryness so make sure you keep your styling aids at the lowest setting possible to achieve your style of choice.  You'll also want to purchase a quality conditioner designed for use on permed hair.

Proper product usage
One mistake that people make when they chemically treat their hair is using products that aren't designed to work with the chemicals.  Look for products that are specifically designed for use on permed hair.  They may cost a little more and depending on your location, they may be difficult to find locally but there's always the internet.

Color too
Don't make the boo-boo of coloring your hair too soon.  In fact, perms work best on virgin hair so if you've already opted for color, you may want to reconsider getting a permanent.  If you MUST perm and MUST color, wait one week to color your hair after a permanent.  If your hair has been previously colored, go to a licensed cosmetologist to achieve your perm.

Droop
If your curls seem less curly, use curl boosters!  They uhm boost your curls :-)  You can also try shampooing less frequently or, and I can't believe I'm saying this, you can try the no-poo method.  This involves occassionally "washing" your hair with conditioner sans shampoo.  Shampoos contain surfactants which can strip hair (making it more dry) and seemingly revert the chemical process.

But I wanna be blonde
Don't bleach permed hair.

Hair type considerations
A perm isn't for everyone.  Sure, you can do whatever you want but at the end of the day, Daisy Dukes weren't made for me and it's a possibility that permanents were not made for you.  If your hair is of the "fine" variety, you're out of luck.  This is the absolute worst hair type for this procedure.  In addition to the "fine" folk, those of you with coarse and very straight hair will have difficulty in the perming department as well.

Although people of African descent often and mistakenly refer to relaxers as perms (one straightens hair, the other curls it...duh), it should go unsaid that perms are not for you.  Consider a texturizer instead. 

It didn't work!
There's a boat load of reasons why your permenant didn't come out like that spread in the magazines.  Many of these factors are beyond your control; Age, hormones, medications and pregnancy to name a few.  And even if none of those factors come into play, some people have hair types and textures that refuse to give in to the perm.  So get over it and break out the rollers.

Touch-ups
Hair grows approximately .5 inches per month.  As your virgin hair comes in, it will be vastly different from the chemically treated ends.  As your perm grows out, you may have to touch-up the new-growth...the new-growth only.  This is best done when you have at least 1-2 inches so that you can clearly see the demarcation line.  You can protect the chemically altered ends by using a barrier cream or wrap it in protective plastic.  This should help prevent the perming lotion and neutralizer from coming into contact with the previously processed hair and doing further damage to it.