Type 4 - Kinky Hair and Type 5 - Nappy Hair



Kinky and Nappy hair have been a BEAST for me to describe because where I do not want to fall into the trap of classifying these hair types as "African," I do want to take into consideration the special needs of natural Black hair.

One of the troubles in expanding on the Kinky and Nappy hair types is that depending on heritage, whether you be African, African-American, Afri-Caribbean, Afri-German...Jewish or Unknown, your ethnic ancestral heritage may be varied and as a result, your hair typology will be varied as well. This is also a pretty good time to discuss the Type 3 or Type 4 Controversy.

Having reviewed many sources, it seems to me that some who have written articles regarding hair typing is that Type 3 is for Whites and Biracial individuals with at least one African parent.  Type 4 was therefore relegated to anybody who ain't all of the above...in other words, "real" Black folk. 

So what if both your parents are Black, but your hair is just like those in Type 3? Why then in most cases are you considered Type 4?

What also troubled me is that Type 4 lumps together Black folks no matter what their degree of curl and invariably resulted in a convoluted system known as LOIS that was designed for African hair typing specifically. 

Where I applaude the efforts of L.O.I.S, (hand raised) "oooh oooh oooh, I got idea!" 

Instead of having one HUGE category for anyone who is remotely African, why not continue to divide the various African hair types into separate categories based on...I dunno...their hair?!?!  Yeah I know, GENIUS!

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Type 4 - Kinky Hair



As with Curly hair, Kinky hair is also designated by an "s's" and "o's" but unlike Curly hair, Kinky hair does not easily refract light, the curl pattern is not readily defined and the curls are more compact or corkscrew like in nature.

Unlike Wavy and Curly hair, Kinky hair s-strands don't readily work together in unison.  They don't have a distinct patter as the photo on the right indicates.  The curls are there, they just aren't curving in the same direction.  Each curly strand is speaking its own language...doing its own thing.

To get kinky hair s-strands to work together, the addition of product (usually significantly more product than with Wavy or Curly hair), is necessary. 

The addition of product not only leads to curl definition, but it also imparts shine.

Kinky hair is more fragile than the previously discussed hair types.  Reason being, with each hair strand doing it's own thing, normal styling can force hairs to go in directions they don't won't to and this can lead to breakage.

Due to the increased number of "bumps"/curls in each individual strand and the difficulty of Kinky hair to come together to form a unified wave, our hairs' natural oil takes longer to work its way from root to tip.  As a result, Kinky hair is also drier than the previously discussed hair types (although not as dry as Nappy hair).

Due to slower oil distribution, Kinky gets "dirty" s
lower and needs to be shampooed less frequently.

Type 5 - Nappy Hair



As with Kinky hair, Nappy hair is designated by compact (lowercase) "s's" and "o's."  The difference is, the s-shape and o-shapes with Nappy hair are the most compact.  In other words, you have to get right up on Nappy hair types to identify the bends and twists in the hair.

Nappy hair is far more spongy and tends to be coarser (thicker) and rougher in some cases  than Kinky hair.

Nappy hair's s-curls require a far more specialized product line when compared to other types.  I know those of you with Nappy hair don't like to hear this but keep in mind this article isn't about telling you what you ain't got.  It's about explaining what you do so that you pick hair styles and products that work with your hair rather than "agin it."

Still bummed?  Don't let historical BS keep you from reading and learning with an open mind.  Shelve your feelings, shelve what folks told you bout Nappy hair, and let's continue this journey. 

Consider the following examples regarding product usage and style. 
Example 1:  Where the addition of a gel or gel-like product may cause Kinky hair to mimic Curly hair, adding the same product to Nappy hair may result in little or no change...the curls will continue to work individually.

Example 2:  What happens when you add oil sheen to straight, wavy or naturally curly hair?  It shines more correct?  What happens when you add oil sheen to Kinky hair?  To Nappy hair?

What this means is that aside from the Afro, Kinky-Nappy hair is not always well suited for "open" hair styles.  Nappy hair especially benefits most from styles that encourage its individual curl strands to work together. 

As a result, braids, cornrows, twists, Dreadlocks, etc are all styles that accentuate Nappy hairs' beauty, health and growth rather than detract from it. 

Now that we understand the 5 basic types of hair...

WHAT IS YOUR TYPE?  WRITE IT DOWN.

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Over the past few years I've been developing a system called the S~Factor. This system will maximize a number of "S"~Factors and will teach you how to work with your Type 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a or 4b hair type.

With your purchase you will received a detailed explanation on how to use the products in your kit. Depending on your type, you may have to use more or less of a product but the end goal remains the same, beautiful, defined, soft, bouncy, shiny, healthy S~Curls.

To achieve Separation, Sexy, Shiny, Silky S~Curls, you'll be initiating the following steps. In brief they are...

Step 1: Smooth the product on your hair.

Step 2: Separate and define your curls

Step 3: Seal your curls.

Step 4: Sculpt your style.

Step 5: Set your style by air drying or diffusing.

To maintain your S~curls, in the morning you repeat steps 3-4 and voila!